Construction Methods

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Blake Rapid


The Blake-Rapid method is a combination of Goodyear and Blake methods in which the technique of Blake is fused with the extra midsole of the Goodyear. Shoes constructed with this method tend to be sturdy thanks to the extra midsole therefore, this method is usually used on rugged shoes. Shoes constructed with the blake-rapid method are made as follows: a midsole is stitched along the bottom of the lasted insole. The midsole provides a platform for the outsole. Afterwards, a high-speed stitching machine joins the outsole to the rest of the previously constructed shoe. This method allows the ability to remove the sole unit and replace it with any sole of choosing. The shoes crafted with this method tend to be waterproof and more durable than Blake method shoes, but it is also a matter of preference since shoes made in the blake method are more flexible and cheaper to resole.
Blake
The most popular version of all shoe construction methods is the Blake method. The Blake stitch uses a single row of interlocked stitching along the outsole holding the separate shoe elements together. This process is constructed by joining the sole directly with the leather with a strong stitch. Which results in a thinner sole and sleeker shoe; allowing the shoes to have more flexibility, to be lighter in weight and have an elegant shape. This method is used for the majority of Italian shoes. Contrary to what many people think these shoes are easily resoled.
Welt


Welt construction provides a stronger attachment point for the soles. The method is as follows: a strip of leather, rubber or plastic is stitched to join the shoe's outsole to its insole and upper combined with blake or blake rapid method. Over the years, the methods of constructing welted shoes have improved which now provides unparalleled superior lateral stability. This factor is important as it helps keeps the joint of the ankles and knees aligned and maintains the proper balance and support of the foot.
Sacchetto
Sacchetto means 'little bag' in Italian and this type of construction results in the most seamless shoes. A single piece of leather is stitched into the form of a bag, the bag is then turned inside out concealing any seams. The bag is then attached on the last and stitched and sealed beneath the shoe. On top of that the comfort foam insole is applied and then finally the sole unit is added to conceal any seams or stitches. The huge benefit of this type of construction is that it is extremely flexible at the balls of the feet. In addition, there are no seams or stitching to irritate and restrict the feet. This construction method works perfectly when combined with a blake construction for summer shoes.
Mocassin
This construction method is significant for Scarosso drivers, it is entirely constructed by hand consisting of one single leather sole part which wraps around the foot. The sole is brought up the sides of the foot on top where it is joined with an U-shaped leather piece and seemed together by hand. The single layer sole is flexible and either hard or soft. Shoes with this construction are very soft and flexible and perfect to wear with bare feet during summer.